I suggest the following when bathing your horse in cool weather (between 45 and 65 degrees F)
First, bring lots of towels and even a hair dryer - horses don't usually mind hair dryers and they are also a great way to desensitize the horse.
Second, use warm water when possible and an anti-bacterial soap to promote skin health. Scrub the entire body well, paying special attention to the legs and the stomach, areas that are most often exposed to mud and dirt.
After bathing the horse thoroughly, take a bottle of rubbing alcohol and pour or spray rubbing alcohol all over the horse - this will make your horse dry MUCH more quickly, as alcohol evaporates much faster than water.
Finally, completely dry your horse head to toe and cover him/her with a cooler until dry.
Warm water tanks are not usually very big in barns. Turn the water off while you are scrubbing down the horse to conserve the warm water as long as possible.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Questions to ask the seller when you call about a horse for sale
1. Is the horse registered? If not, do you have proof of horse's age/history?
2. Do you believe that this horse will pass a pre-purchase exam by a veterinarian? (Possibly the most important question)
3. Has this horse been lame in the past?
4. Does this horse have any conformation faults?
5. Does this horse have up-to-date shots, coggins, and farrier work? (not all will, but it gives you an idea of the seller's investment in the horse.
6. Does the horse wear shoes or go barefoot?
7. Does the horse have any vices (stall vices or vices under saddle?)
8. Does this horse buck, rear, bolt, balk, or spook?
These are just some basic questions that you should ask the seller before you go to see a horse. If the horse is in the $2,000 to $5,000 range, I believe that it is acceptable to ask for more pictures before you take the trip to see the horse. If the horse is over $3000, I believe that it is appropriate to ask for video footage of the horse in action.
When you do make the call to the seller, be sure to have the horse's advertisement in front of you so that you do not ask questions that the seller has already answered in the advertisement. These questions, and others pertain to your particular needs will help you to determine whether or not you should make the trip to see a horse.
2. Do you believe that this horse will pass a pre-purchase exam by a veterinarian? (Possibly the most important question)
3. Has this horse been lame in the past?
4. Does this horse have any conformation faults?
5. Does this horse have up-to-date shots, coggins, and farrier work? (not all will, but it gives you an idea of the seller's investment in the horse.
6. Does the horse wear shoes or go barefoot?
7. Does the horse have any vices (stall vices or vices under saddle?)
8. Does this horse buck, rear, bolt, balk, or spook?
These are just some basic questions that you should ask the seller before you go to see a horse. If the horse is in the $2,000 to $5,000 range, I believe that it is acceptable to ask for more pictures before you take the trip to see the horse. If the horse is over $3000, I believe that it is appropriate to ask for video footage of the horse in action.
When you do make the call to the seller, be sure to have the horse's advertisement in front of you so that you do not ask questions that the seller has already answered in the advertisement. These questions, and others pertain to your particular needs will help you to determine whether or not you should make the trip to see a horse.
Friday, January 25, 2008
First Aid Kit Tips
I have been putting together my own equine first aid kit and with the help of some fellow horse professionals and vets, I have learned some interesting ideas. Speaking of costs of owning a horse....
What is most important is that your barn or riding facility has a first aid kit on hand. Not every person needs to own every one of these things, but they should all be availible at your facility...
Per Dr. Johnson: The most common mistake he sees is vet-wrap used to protect a wound without padding underneath it. The vet-wrap sticks to itself and often constricts, cutting off blood flow and making the problem worse. If you do not have gauze padding, you can use a clean diaper underneath the vet-wrap.
The best random tip I found was this: Make a ball out of your old socks (cleaned and bleached)....every time you need to clean a wound, apply a dressing, or even oil your tack, you can peel off a sock and dispose of it after you have used it. How neat!
As I have been looking around for materials for my first aid kit, the best places to find the necessary items have been:
TSC or Tack Shop (for equine-specific products)
Dollar Store or regular pharmacy (where you can find almost all of this stuff)
Medical Supply store or make friends with a nice nurse!
I am copying some information from the following website because I think that it is important to put it here. This is probably the best list I have found so far.
http://infohorse.com/equinefirstaid.asp
First Aid Kit for Horses should include the following:
Anyone who owns a horse should own a well-stocked First Aid Kit. Start by buying a plastic bucket that has a lid and place all of the first aid supplies in the tightly sealed container. The following are first-aid supplies that are essential to a well-stocked First Aid Kit. These supplies should be kept in all First Aid Kits...
Stethoscope
You should check and measure heart rate and gut sound when horse is well to make a comparison when the horse is ill. Normal rate for adult horse is around 30 to 40 beats a minute and significantly higher for a nursing Mare and a Foal is around 60 to 80 beats a minute.
Iodine Solution Diluted
An Iodine Solution that is properly diluted is Betadine. Any fresh wounds should be flushed out with this solution.
Hydrogen Peroxide
Only use Hydrogen Peroxide to flush deep wounds or punctures only.
Neosporin and Nolvasan
These are topical antiseptic ointments that fight bacteria and promote healing. These should be used twice daily after a veterinarian has seen the wound.
Saline
Use to flush wounds after using anti bacterial washes and before wrapping.
Sterile Gauze Sponges
Use these when cleaning the wounded area with a Diluted Iodine Solution.
Sterile Gauze Roll and Self-Adhesive Tape
The Self-Adhesive Tape holds the Gauze to the wound. The tape is easily applied and removed. A few good brands are: Kling, Elastikon, Flexus and Vet-Rap.
Blunt-tipped Bandage Scissors
These come in handy for removing bandages.
Topical Eye Ointment
Non-steroidal Eye Ointment comes in handy when a horse injures his eye, and a veterinarian is not immediately available.
Rectal Thermometer
Use with a string attached to prevent loss into the rectum or dropping and breaking it.
An adult horse's normal temperature is between 99.0 and 101 degrees F. A foal is usually between 100 and 102. You should have some alcohol in your first aid kit to disinfect the Thermometer.
Inject able Sedative and Pain Killer
Keep a small dose of each available. They come in handy in situations such as colic or for horses that are unwilling.
Electrolytes
For use if dehydration is suspected.
Other Supplies That Should be Included:
Cold packs instant type for first aid
Disposable diapers (2 or more for bleeding)
Knife is useful for many things including cutting rope and bandages etc.
Latex gloves
Lubricant like ky jelly to aid thermometer insertion.
Scissors
Tweezers
Twitch for distraction if necessary.
Digital thermometer
Duct tape Use on hoof
Easy-Boot Use on hoof
Stethoscope
Twitch
Hoof Pick
Fly Lotion
Wire cutters
Electrolytes
Flashlight
What is most important is that your barn or riding facility has a first aid kit on hand. Not every person needs to own every one of these things, but they should all be availible at your facility...
Per Dr. Johnson: The most common mistake he sees is vet-wrap used to protect a wound without padding underneath it. The vet-wrap sticks to itself and often constricts, cutting off blood flow and making the problem worse. If you do not have gauze padding, you can use a clean diaper underneath the vet-wrap.
The best random tip I found was this: Make a ball out of your old socks (cleaned and bleached)....every time you need to clean a wound, apply a dressing, or even oil your tack, you can peel off a sock and dispose of it after you have used it. How neat!
As I have been looking around for materials for my first aid kit, the best places to find the necessary items have been:
TSC or Tack Shop (for equine-specific products)
Dollar Store or regular pharmacy (where you can find almost all of this stuff)
Medical Supply store or make friends with a nice nurse!
I am copying some information from the following website because I think that it is important to put it here. This is probably the best list I have found so far.
http://infohorse.com/equinefirstaid.asp
First Aid Kit for Horses should include the following:
Anyone who owns a horse should own a well-stocked First Aid Kit. Start by buying a plastic bucket that has a lid and place all of the first aid supplies in the tightly sealed container. The following are first-aid supplies that are essential to a well-stocked First Aid Kit. These supplies should be kept in all First Aid Kits...
Stethoscope
You should check and measure heart rate and gut sound when horse is well to make a comparison when the horse is ill. Normal rate for adult horse is around 30 to 40 beats a minute and significantly higher for a nursing Mare and a Foal is around 60 to 80 beats a minute.
Iodine Solution Diluted
An Iodine Solution that is properly diluted is Betadine. Any fresh wounds should be flushed out with this solution.
Hydrogen Peroxide
Only use Hydrogen Peroxide to flush deep wounds or punctures only.
Neosporin and Nolvasan
These are topical antiseptic ointments that fight bacteria and promote healing. These should be used twice daily after a veterinarian has seen the wound.
Saline
Use to flush wounds after using anti bacterial washes and before wrapping.
Sterile Gauze Sponges
Use these when cleaning the wounded area with a Diluted Iodine Solution.
Sterile Gauze Roll and Self-Adhesive Tape
The Self-Adhesive Tape holds the Gauze to the wound. The tape is easily applied and removed. A few good brands are: Kling, Elastikon, Flexus and Vet-Rap.
Blunt-tipped Bandage Scissors
These come in handy for removing bandages.
Topical Eye Ointment
Non-steroidal Eye Ointment comes in handy when a horse injures his eye, and a veterinarian is not immediately available.
Rectal Thermometer
Use with a string attached to prevent loss into the rectum or dropping and breaking it.
An adult horse's normal temperature is between 99.0 and 101 degrees F. A foal is usually between 100 and 102. You should have some alcohol in your first aid kit to disinfect the Thermometer.
Inject able Sedative and Pain Killer
Keep a small dose of each available. They come in handy in situations such as colic or for horses that are unwilling.
Electrolytes
For use if dehydration is suspected.
Other Supplies That Should be Included:
Cold packs instant type for first aid
Disposable diapers (2 or more for bleeding)
Knife is useful for many things including cutting rope and bandages etc.
Latex gloves
Lubricant like ky jelly to aid thermometer insertion.
Scissors
Tweezers
Twitch for distraction if necessary.
Digital thermometer
Duct tape Use on hoof
Easy-Boot Use on hoof
Stethoscope
Twitch
Hoof Pick
Fly Lotion
Wire cutters
Electrolytes
Flashlight
Thursday, January 24, 2008
What to Wear To Riding Lessons...
Many of my students come to riding lessons wearing less than appropriate attire. If you plan to take riding lessons, you should first decide whether you will be riding English or Western. From there, you can make decisions about what you need. You should also ALWAYS ask the barn you will be riding at whether or not they have rules regarding appropriate riding wear.
For a beginner English or Western Rider, I suggest the following:
1. Shoes with at least a one-inch heel. Paddock boots are preferable and cost as little as $25. Check on E-bay! Some hiking boots are okay, but they should have a heel. Why does this matter? Because NOT having a heel increases the likelihood of your foot slipping through the stirrup. And if this happens and you are unfortunate enough to be thrown off the horse, you may get your foot stuck and be dragged around by a horse that is likely to do most anything he can to get a the giant, hanging person away from him. Tennis shoes, sandals, and dress shoes without a heel are NEVER safe!
2. A HELMET!!!! Please please please purchase a helmet before you go to your first riding lesson. If you do not have the money to buy a helmet, make sure that the barn you will be riding at has helmets availible for lesson students. These do not have to cost $100 or more dollars. You can find a perfectly good, SEI-approved helmet for about $30-$40 dollars.
3. Long pants. Just wear long pants. Not shorts, not capris, full-length pants. It might be hot outside, you might even feel uncomfortable. But there are about 10 reasons I can think of that you should wear long pants. Just a couple - saddles pinch human skin when the skin is not protected by pants. It is painful. And when you take that first fall, you will thank me. You will have some protection between your sensitive human skin and the ground.
What NOT to wear: The worst outfit: Shorts, a bikini top, sandals, a baseball cap, and lots of dangling jewelry - people do come dressed to ride this way, believe it or not.
And again, ask the particular barn about dress codes and suggestions on proper riding clothes. Ask them where you can get the best deals on horse clothes in your area. 99% of us horse professionals are poor - we are bargain shoppers and usually can give you some great tips.
Cut and paste the link below to read more about riding apparel, what to expect from riding lessons, etc.
http://www.equisearch.com/horses_riding_training/training/beginning_rider/taking_lessons091399a/
For a beginner English or Western Rider, I suggest the following:
1. Shoes with at least a one-inch heel. Paddock boots are preferable and cost as little as $25. Check on E-bay! Some hiking boots are okay, but they should have a heel. Why does this matter? Because NOT having a heel increases the likelihood of your foot slipping through the stirrup. And if this happens and you are unfortunate enough to be thrown off the horse, you may get your foot stuck and be dragged around by a horse that is likely to do most anything he can to get a the giant, hanging person away from him. Tennis shoes, sandals, and dress shoes without a heel are NEVER safe!
2. A HELMET!!!! Please please please purchase a helmet before you go to your first riding lesson. If you do not have the money to buy a helmet, make sure that the barn you will be riding at has helmets availible for lesson students. These do not have to cost $100 or more dollars. You can find a perfectly good, SEI-approved helmet for about $30-$40 dollars.
3. Long pants. Just wear long pants. Not shorts, not capris, full-length pants. It might be hot outside, you might even feel uncomfortable. But there are about 10 reasons I can think of that you should wear long pants. Just a couple - saddles pinch human skin when the skin is not protected by pants. It is painful. And when you take that first fall, you will thank me. You will have some protection between your sensitive human skin and the ground.
What NOT to wear: The worst outfit: Shorts, a bikini top, sandals, a baseball cap, and lots of dangling jewelry - people do come dressed to ride this way, believe it or not.
And again, ask the particular barn about dress codes and suggestions on proper riding clothes. Ask them where you can get the best deals on horse clothes in your area. 99% of us horse professionals are poor - we are bargain shoppers and usually can give you some great tips.
Cut and paste the link below to read more about riding apparel, what to expect from riding lessons, etc.
http://www.equisearch.com/horses_riding_training/training/beginning_rider/taking_lessons091399a/
Costs of owning a horse.....
Costs of owning a horse.....
Okay, let's get started:
Costs you can count on....
-Cost of the horse ($1,000 - ???)
-cost of having the horse shipped to your home barn (Usually $1.00 to $2.00 per mile)
-board deposit ($100 to $300)
-board ($200 to $800 per month)
-farrier ($30 - $50 to trim every 8 weeks or $65 - $150 for shoes every six to eight weeks)
-vet check for horse ($200 - $500 or more)
-Vet care (Probably averages out to $50/month)
-Horse junk (wormer, blankets, halters, and so on) ($20 - $200 per month or more)
-Gas money to get to the barn
Potential costs
-Vet costs in emergency (possibly up to or exceeding $10,000) GET INSURANCE on your horse!
-Training ($50 - $500 per month)
-Lessons ($50 - $200 per month or more)
-More horse junk (endless spending possibilities)
-chiropractor ($40+)
-acupuncture ($50+)
-Feed supplements ($10 - $200 per month)
-Extra hay ($7.00+ per bale)
-Transportation costs to shows/trail rides/clinics
Okay, what am I forgetting, fellow horse owners? Please comment on this post. I am trying to give the people who don't yet own a horse some idea of how much a horse can potentially cost. Of course this is worst case scenario, but I learned this year that worst case scenario actually does happen!
Okay, let's get started:
Costs you can count on....
-Cost of the horse ($1,000 - ???)
-cost of having the horse shipped to your home barn (Usually $1.00 to $2.00 per mile)
-board deposit ($100 to $300)
-board ($200 to $800 per month)
-farrier ($30 - $50 to trim every 8 weeks or $65 - $150 for shoes every six to eight weeks)
-vet check for horse ($200 - $500 or more)
-Vet care (Probably averages out to $50/month)
-Horse junk (wormer, blankets, halters, and so on) ($20 - $200 per month or more)
-Gas money to get to the barn
Potential costs
-Vet costs in emergency (possibly up to or exceeding $10,000) GET INSURANCE on your horse!
-Training ($50 - $500 per month)
-Lessons ($50 - $200 per month or more)
-More horse junk (endless spending possibilities)
-chiropractor ($40+)
-acupuncture ($50+)
-Feed supplements ($10 - $200 per month)
-Extra hay ($7.00+ per bale)
-Transportation costs to shows/trail rides/clinics
Okay, what am I forgetting, fellow horse owners? Please comment on this post. I am trying to give the people who don't yet own a horse some idea of how much a horse can potentially cost. Of course this is worst case scenario, but I learned this year that worst case scenario actually does happen!
Purchasing a Horse - Some of the Basics
Looking for a horse
I do have several clients who are in the process of looking for horses to purchase. Most of this searching seems to be online, so I want to offer a little advice when you are wondering what the next step is....
First, one of my smartest horse colleagues always tries to make me look at at least ten to twenty horses before I decide on the one that is 'perfect.' Of course I never get that far, but the point is well-taken. When we go to the trouble to set up an appointment, travel x amount of miles to visit, and spend time and money to look at a horse, we might have a tendency to talk ourselves into 'love at first sight' even when the horse is not perfect for us. I am the worst person about this. I have trucked in the first horse I looked at too many times and it has never worked out in my or the horse's favor. This year, I have learned that horse shopping, if you are doing it the right way, is time-consuming, tedious, and often frustrating. But the reward of taking your time is finding the horse that is truly meant to be your partner for life.
Second, let's say you have found a horse or pony in an advertisement that catches your attention and is within your price range.
Read the ad again, carefully. Does the author mention any lameness or injuries? Is the horse within your desired age range? Are there any 'red flags' in the ad? What gets left out of the ad? If it is a thoroughbred or other racing breed, does the ad mention whether or not the horse has been raced? I have written many ads for horses and you should remember the following:
-the author is trying to depict the horse in the best possible manner. The horse is probably LESS attractive than the pictures in the ad.
-sellers are motivated to sell. Not to do the right thing. There are some honest, good people selling horses, but you can't ever assume that the seller is telling you the entire truth or even part of the truth. Be skeptical. If it seems too good to be true, IT IS! It ALWAYS is! There are no deals of a lifetime anymore. 99.9% of the sellers know why they are asking the price they have chosen.
Third. When you have found several horses that you like, contact each owner with a note or a phone call. In the initial call or email, you should:
1. Identify yourself and why you are calling. Remember the name and breed of the horse you are contacting them about. Some people are selling many horses at one time. I have often said, "Hi, my name is Kristen Hassen and I am calling about the horse you have for sale," only to have the person on the other line reply, "Which one?" The seller should confirm that they still have the horse for sale (often the horse will have been sold already).
2. Tell the seller a little about what you are looking for. Emphasize that you are looking for a completely SOUND, HEALTHY horse and then be honest about your plans for this horse. It helps to have written down your ideal characteristics ahead of time. For instance, when I was looking for a horse this last time, I wrote something like this:
"Hi, my name is Kristen and I am calling about the grey thoroughbred you have for sale. I am looking for a horse that is 100% sound and is completely healthy. I am a trainer in Marysville, Ohio and I would like a competition horse for myself. I do eventing, trail riding and fox hunting and I want a horse that will not be physically limited by injury or lameness issues. Could you tell me a little more about your horse?"
Half of the time, the horse got knocked out right away when the owner disclosed an old injury or that the horse in question had navicular disease or something of the like.
3. You should have a list of questions prepared to ask the seller when you eventually speak to him/her. If you are satisfied with the answers to these, you might decide to set up a time to see the horse.
4. When you see the horse and immediately decide you have to have it, STOP! You still have to consult me, make a second and maybe even a third visit, get a complete vet check, and have a behavioral assessment. It will be at least two weeks until that horse will be yours!!! I promise it will be worth the wait! And if the sellers want you to pay right there and then, I bet you the price of the horse that there is something wrong. Don't do it. Offer to make a small deposit (get a receipt) and take all the time you need to. If the seller is a trustworthy and caring person, they will appreciate that you want to take all the appropriate steps.
I do have several clients who are in the process of looking for horses to purchase. Most of this searching seems to be online, so I want to offer a little advice when you are wondering what the next step is....
First, one of my smartest horse colleagues always tries to make me look at at least ten to twenty horses before I decide on the one that is 'perfect.' Of course I never get that far, but the point is well-taken. When we go to the trouble to set up an appointment, travel x amount of miles to visit, and spend time and money to look at a horse, we might have a tendency to talk ourselves into 'love at first sight' even when the horse is not perfect for us. I am the worst person about this. I have trucked in the first horse I looked at too many times and it has never worked out in my or the horse's favor. This year, I have learned that horse shopping, if you are doing it the right way, is time-consuming, tedious, and often frustrating. But the reward of taking your time is finding the horse that is truly meant to be your partner for life.
Second, let's say you have found a horse or pony in an advertisement that catches your attention and is within your price range.
Read the ad again, carefully. Does the author mention any lameness or injuries? Is the horse within your desired age range? Are there any 'red flags' in the ad? What gets left out of the ad? If it is a thoroughbred or other racing breed, does the ad mention whether or not the horse has been raced? I have written many ads for horses and you should remember the following:
-the author is trying to depict the horse in the best possible manner. The horse is probably LESS attractive than the pictures in the ad.
-sellers are motivated to sell. Not to do the right thing. There are some honest, good people selling horses, but you can't ever assume that the seller is telling you the entire truth or even part of the truth. Be skeptical. If it seems too good to be true, IT IS! It ALWAYS is! There are no deals of a lifetime anymore. 99.9% of the sellers know why they are asking the price they have chosen.
Third. When you have found several horses that you like, contact each owner with a note or a phone call. In the initial call or email, you should:
1. Identify yourself and why you are calling. Remember the name and breed of the horse you are contacting them about. Some people are selling many horses at one time. I have often said, "Hi, my name is Kristen Hassen and I am calling about the horse you have for sale," only to have the person on the other line reply, "Which one?" The seller should confirm that they still have the horse for sale (often the horse will have been sold already).
2. Tell the seller a little about what you are looking for. Emphasize that you are looking for a completely SOUND, HEALTHY horse and then be honest about your plans for this horse. It helps to have written down your ideal characteristics ahead of time. For instance, when I was looking for a horse this last time, I wrote something like this:
"Hi, my name is Kristen and I am calling about the grey thoroughbred you have for sale. I am looking for a horse that is 100% sound and is completely healthy. I am a trainer in Marysville, Ohio and I would like a competition horse for myself. I do eventing, trail riding and fox hunting and I want a horse that will not be physically limited by injury or lameness issues. Could you tell me a little more about your horse?"
Half of the time, the horse got knocked out right away when the owner disclosed an old injury or that the horse in question had navicular disease or something of the like.
3. You should have a list of questions prepared to ask the seller when you eventually speak to him/her. If you are satisfied with the answers to these, you might decide to set up a time to see the horse.
4. When you see the horse and immediately decide you have to have it, STOP! You still have to consult me, make a second and maybe even a third visit, get a complete vet check, and have a behavioral assessment. It will be at least two weeks until that horse will be yours!!! I promise it will be worth the wait! And if the sellers want you to pay right there and then, I bet you the price of the horse that there is something wrong. Don't do it. Offer to make a small deposit (get a receipt) and take all the time you need to. If the seller is a trustworthy and caring person, they will appreciate that you want to take all the appropriate steps.
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